How do I care for a small Peruvian Torch cactus?

I purchased a small 4-5" columnar cactus on sale at Wal-Mart last summer. No ID tag was present in the container. I've finally discovered from research, that it appears to be a small (8-10") Peruvian Torch, possibly a San Pedro cactus. I have it planted in a 6" clay pot, in a mixture of potting soil and sand. It gets full sun for about half the day. It seems to be growing, albeit very slowly. I've read that they can grow a foot per year. Mine only grew about 3 or 4 inches. Any advice?Yeah, yeah, I know what its properties are. I did some research on the thing, just can't find anything on how to care for them properly. I don't plan on eating it for the mescaline, just looks nice as an ornamental plant. A bit surprised that Wal-Mart actually carried this little unlabeled cactus.BTW, thanx for the info. Perhaps I have it in too small a pot. I shall transfer it to an 8-10" pot shortly.

Answer: 1.
We recommend that you further investigate this historically significant plant, a central sacrament of ancient Native South America. One of the things further investigation will reveal, for instance, is that this cactus, if ingested, can make you violently and painfully nauseous.

These plants are DANGEROUS, AND ARE NOT FOR INGESTION.

Peruvian Torch makes an excellent addition to any ethnobotanical garden with its fast growth rate and easy germination rate. These unusual and beautiful live cuttings will grow well, and this is the only purpose for which they are sold.

Our grower writes:

I have tried all kinds of potting mixes and have found that regular cheap potting soil works great for these plants. A 12 inch cutting does great in a 8 to 12 inch pot. I sink about 1/3 of the plant in the soil, with the nettles sticking up.

I water my plants as soon as I plant them, but thereafter, only when the soil is completely dry - which can be every other day in some hotter climates. I don't water in the winter at all. And in the fall only as needed if we are having some hot spells.

As for nutrition I use fish emulsion solution once in the spring, once in the mid summer, and once at the end of summer. I use one cap-full per gallon.

These are particularly fast-growing cacti. The flowers can reach 12 inches in diameter, and bloom

How would you test which sample of soil has a higher fertility?

1. Clay Soil2. Sandy Soil

Answer: 1.
Clay soil always has higher fertility because of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Clay particles are negatively charged and hold onto nutrients which are positively charged such as Calcium (Ca), Hydrogen (H), Potassium (K), Iron (Fe) and Magnesium (Mg). It does not hold on as well to negatively charged particles such as Nitrogen (N) and Phosphates (P).

That's why when soils are over-fertilized the nitrates and phosphates end up in ground water and streams. Everyone would be better off if they laid off the nitrates and plant legumes instead. The legumes have nitrogen fixing bacteria on their roots which can pull nitrogen from the air and put it in the soil provided you don't pull the roots up after they die back.

Sandy soil has a much lower CEC so it is a hungry soil.

There's no need to test a sample. It's just science.

To improve the fertility of both types of soil dig in organic matter. You can till it into clay, but it's better to dig it in by hand with sand because sandy soil is susceptible to having its crumb structure destroyed by multiple passes by a rototiller or rotovator.

I could go on. There are more ways to improve each soil, but that's not your question so I'll stop blathering on.
Answer: 2.
Take a sample of each, and put each one in a tiny plant pot. Plant something in it, after it had grown, make a note of which grew the quickest and biggest and then repeat the experiment. Repear until you are happy with one being better than the other, then that is the soil with higher fertility.

Hope this helps :]
Answer: 3.
You would want to check the amount of dissolved oxygen, phosphates, nitrates, and carbon levels in the soil. Special meters can be bought for around 0 online.
Since you really don't want to spend that amount, take a soil sample and bring it to your local florist or botanist. Ask them to take a look at it and they'll tell you if what you want to grow can grow in your soil. Good luck!
Answer: 4.
you can buy soil test kits for only a few dollars but if you want a full test done take soil samples and send them to the soils lab at your state ag collage.

What can I plant in an area of my garden that is receiving underground water and is always a muddy swamp?

the area is shady, the soil is extreme clay. What, if anything, might grow in a clay swamp? I thought of just muclching over it, but the water seeps through. I need to plant something that will drink all that water!I should add the the space is small, much too small for a tree. I'm thinking of ground cover or very low shrubs. Thanks!

Answer: 1.
Hostas usually do well in wet conditions. Any "Bog plants" or "Marginal plants will do well in that area.

http://www.plantideas.com/bog/index.html
http://www.denverplants.com/wgard/html/m...
http://www.froggyponds.com/shop/cat_162_...
Answer: 2.
You're welcome!

I have the SAME problem in parts of my yard. In one area, I dug a hole and let a "natural" frog pond form.
Answer: 3.
And, in other areas, i'm trying the french drain system - digging holes and/or trenches and filling with gravel. I have a tiny one in my front garden, when I was have a puddle problem, and it has worked out great!

Good luck to you! =)
Answer: 4.
Northern White Cedar--not only is it considered the Tree of Life by the Ojibwa; as a sacred tree it is called Grandmother. If you want, you can trim it to keep it more "bush" size. The foliage can be collected, dried and burned for an excellent smudge. The "cedar berries" can be made into cedar oil.

Note: Red Cedar and Juniper is not the same as Northern White Cedar

Additional Note: With proper trimming, you can keep the Cedar small, and "shrub" size.
Answer: 5.
Irises will suck up all that water and thrive in it, and will spread quickly, too. My mother has that same problem in her yard and she is going to plant Acorus Calamus (Sweet Flag) which is a type of iris, but really you could put any variety there. The link I've included below supplies the best quality plants I have ever had, mine have performed beautifully for over five years now.
Answer: 6.
You probably looked through the web already. I found these...hope it is of some help.
Answer: 7.
that is realy funny i have the exact opposite problem my backyard is clay but there is no water and tons of rocks you cant event dig over 2-3 feet but for your house i would realy stick with cattails theres not realy many trees but willows like water so ou could plant those too
Answer: 8.
Cattails love swamp water, they thrive in it and grow about 6 to 7 feet tall. They have a brown seed pod at the top in the fall. I had some around my koi pond for a number of years.

check out our web site http://www.ourhomeimprovement.net/koi-po...
Answer: 9.
Dragon's Blood is a good wet-ground cover if you make sure to plant enough of it and don't choke off the main root hub. It is blood red and dark green in case you want to know.
Answer: 10.
You could install a bog garden. Here's how:
http://pondlady.com/Articles/bog_garden....
Answer: 11.
A weeping willow tree, but dont plant it anywhere near pipes in the ground or septic tank or drainfield.

I planted an asparagus fern that a friend dug up for me, should it be in full sun?

or should I put it in partial shade. It is in a clay pot with fresh potting soil and the roots were very well established. I was thinking maybe of putting it under my backyard tree.

Answer: 1.
I have three aspargus ferns in pots they get shade in the morning until about 12 and then direct sun until the sun starts setting about 7 they love it they are outside already here in Montana and they will stay out there until october then I take them in the house for the winter and water just like all of my other house plants and they have bloomed the last two years-the blooms turn into berries that turn bright red around christmas. They will be a great addition to your outside flowers.
Answer: 2.
They need a lot of light, so I don't think it would do well under a tree. Additionally, depending on the type of tree, the fern may have to compete for moisture. (Some trees, like maples, are difficult to grow anything underneath. Others, like Oaks, have deeper roots and provide a less hostile environment). Asparagus ferns prefer to dry out between waterings, so perhaps moisture wont be a factor. Still, I don't think it will do well in the shade.
Answer: 3.
It will do best in part sun part shade area. It will look lush and green if you fertilize with Miracle-Grow for acidified soil loving plants. Will make a nice border for your tree. Ferns love water.
Answer: 4.
Just make sure it has some sun and keep it from drying out.
Answer: 5.
it needs to be kept moist and preferably to the north, like moss

I live on adobe (clay type) soil. What kind of trees and plants can I grow?

Also, what type of amendments should I add to make the soil more plant "friendly"?

Answer: 1.
I provided a site listing plants that will grow in clay soil. Good luck!
Answer: 2.
You want to add humus to the dirt of any kind. Start out with a good dose of manure and keep adding grass clippings and other nutrients as mulch's on everything you plant. You can also mix with another top soil and manure your first year.
It depends on which zone you are in, but I never had any trouble in zone 3 with our adobe dirt and what I planted as long as I was making the dirt more pliable and more humus.
Any Evergreen tree's. Lily's, forsythia, lilac, cottonwood.

*edit* be careful about adding gypsum to your dirt in some area's. Here in western Colorado we already have alkali and gyp abundantly in our dirt already - no need to add more.
Answer: 3.
You cannot grow much in clay.If you do two things it will help.Use Gypsum to help break up clay,and use plenty of organic compost. Both these products you'll get from a garden centre.The more you put in the better your ground will become.The other thing you could do,would be to raise your planting area up above the ground level.I did this with bricks and then put in gypsum,compost,and some decent topsoil.
Answer: 4.
I gardened on adobe for years before moving to my present location where I've fought a different type of clay for 18 years. I have found that hugelkultur has cured my problems and I even made a page to explain how this is done. (See link below). After years of trying this and that (for instance, buying gypsum was a big waste of time and money) nothing has worked for us as well as hugelkultur, then mulching and/or growing cover crops. We have a great garden now!
Answer: 5.
You need humus. Compost or peat moss or manure or all three. Once you get some organic material in the clay you can grow anything that will survive in your climate.
Answer: 6.
Contact your local greenhouses or tree nurseries. They would be able to suggest everything you need for your area.
Answer: 7.
lettuce carrots tomotas peanuts bannanas fungi bush
Answer: 8.
i don't know
Answer: 9.
Working With Clay Soils


Just what is clay soil and why does it matter? Actually, just
what is soil anyway?

It's a combination of sand, silt, clay, minerals and organic matter that also contains some air and water. Clay soils are sometimes referred to as heavy soils and sandy soils are called light. To be classified as clay soil, it should be made up of about 50% clay particles, the finest particles found in soil. As far as the gardener is concerned, clay soil can cause a number of problems. On the positive side, clay isn't necessarily all bad. It has good moisture and nutrition retention. But that same "good" moisture retention can also be a problem. Clay soil drains slowly. So, as snow melts and rains set in, clay soil tends to remain saturated long after average or sandy soils have drained. It is also much slower to warm up in spring. Clay compacts easily making it hard for roots to penetrate, resulting in stunted root systems. With clay soil, there are often problems with frost heave and root damage as the soil freezes and thaws during changing weather. More often than not, clay soil is alkaline (has a high pH) and that can be hard on plants too. And worst of all, the stuff is heavy, sticky and hard to work!

Testing Your Soil Texture

Finding out how much clay is in your soil can be confusing. And it can vary in different parts of your yard. This is especially true in areas of new construction in suburbs in our area. Too often the subsoil is heavy clay that has been severely compacted by heavy equipment. Then, as if it undid all that damage, a layer of top soil is spread over the compacted clay. If you're lucky, this layer may be a foot deep. More likely, it will only be a few inches. It is important to know if this is the situation since it will affect the drainage and the roots of plants. Because soil types aren't always consistent around the yard, its a good idea to test several samples. Since the clay layer may not be very deep (or there may be a layer of clay hidden beneath a layer of lighter top soil) it is also a good idea to check for drainage with a percolation test. There are several easy, inexpensive ways to determine just what type of soil you have. First, take a handful of moist soil and feel it. Rub some between your fingers. Sandy soil is rough and gritty and breaks up easily.

Clay soil is sticky and feels like plastic. Silt is the middle ground, with much smaller particles than sand and it feels slippery when wet. A heavy clay soil will form a solid lump that is difficult to crumble when it's squeezed together. It's hard to get sandy soil to form a lump and it crumbles easily. Another easy way to check the soil is with a quart jar filled about half way with a sample of your soil and then topped off with water. If you have it, add a teaspoon of Calgon. Put the lid on the jar and shake it energetically until everything is swirling around. Then set it aside and let it settle until the water clears. The sand particles are the heaviest and they will settle to the bottom within a few minutes. Within an hour or two, the silt will have formed the next layer. The fine clay particles will finally settle, but it may take a day or so. Organic matter may remain floating around on the top. Looking at the layers, you can now see, comparatively, just how much sand, silt and clay make up your soil. If the clay layer makes up half or more of your sample, you have a heavy clay soil. Soil that is equal parts of clay, silt and sand is called loam. Sandy soils have very little clay. The best way to do a percolation test is to dig a hole about 2 feet deep and a foot wide. Fill that hole with water and let it drain completely. Now fill it again and keep track of how long it takes to drain. If it drains in less than 12 hours, the soil should be able to support plants that require well-drained soil. If it takes 12-24 hours to drain, the soil is best suited to plants that tolerate heavy or clay soils. If it takes more than 24 hours for the hole to completely drain only trees that withstand occasional flooding will survive.

Options for Dealing With Clay Soil

What can you do if you have clay soil? The first option is to decide whether to work with it as it is or try to change it. The easiest and best course of action is to select plants that are suited to such a site. There are quite a few attractive landscape plants that do well in clay soil. The following list includes some of the best trees and shrubs for clay soil, but it is important that their other needs be met too (sun/shade, acid/alkaline, well drained/ moist).

Trees Best Suited To Clay Soil

*Apples and Crabapples
*Norway and Silver Maple
*Common Honeylocust
*Aspen and Cottonwood
*River Birch
*Kentucky Coffeetree
*White, Black, Green Ash
*Elms
*European Larch and Tamarack
*Ohio Buckeye and Horsechestnut
*Hawthorn
*Lindens
*Bur Oak and Eastern Pin Oak
*Swamp White Oak
*Willow

Other Trees That Tolerate Clay
*Balsam and White (Concolor) Fir
*Freemani, Red and Amur Maples
*Norway and Black Hills Spruce
*Austrian, White and Scotch Pines
*Japanese Tree Lilac
*Gingko
*Black Walnut

Shrubs Best Suited to Clay Soil
*Alpine Currant
*Honeysuckle
*Siberian Peashrub
*Arborvitae
*Lilac
*Snowberry
*Chokeberry
*Ninebark
*Arrowwood and Nannyberry Viburnum
*Redtwig Dogwood
*Potentilla
*European and Highbush Cranberry Viburnum
*Forsythia
*Russian Olive
*Willow

Other Shrubs That Tolerate Clay
*Barberry
*Winged Euonymus
*Serviceberry
*Diervilla
*Junipers
*Sumac
*Pagoda Dogwood
*Winterberry

Planting and Care Tips for Clay Soil

A lot of research has been done on the best methods for planting in clay soils. Before you dig a hole, examine the plant. Carefully remove enough soil from the top of the roots to find the root flare on the trunk of the plant. This is the spot where roots start growing out away from the trunk. Sometimes it will be an inch or two (or even more) below the surface of the soil in a container or ball. It is very important that the root flare be located. It should be at or just above the surrounding soil level when planted. (Large B&B plants should be planted 2-3 inches above the adjacent soil level, smaller container plants should be planted 1-2 inches above the adjacent soil level.) Measure from the root flare to the bottom of the root mass and dig the hole just that deep. Do not disturb the soil any deeper or the plant may settle lower after it is planted. The hole should be at least twice as wide as the root ball and the hole should be shaped like a large bowl, gradually getting shallow towards the edges. Avoid straight sides on the hole and be sure to rough up the surfaces. Another important recommendation is to avoid drastic changes in soil type. It is best to fill back this hole with the same soil you removed Soil amendments can be mixed into the top 6 inches surrounding the planting hole.

What about adding gravel in the bottom of the planting hole? This is an old practice that should go away. The University of Minnesota has done extensive research on this concept and found that adding gravel to the bottom of a planting hole or container actually makes a problem worse. It forms what is called a ‘perched water table’ and makes the soil above the gravel hold even more water. So save that gravel for some other project, don't throw it into the hole! When working with clay soils, avoid automatic watering systems, especially those designed for turf grasses. Landscape plants in clay soils are often drowned by automatic watering systems. Always check to see if the plant needs water before doing so. Check a few inches below the soil surface. The top may be dry, but it could still be wet enough down where the roots are. Keep in mind that the newly disturbed soil around the plant is loose and will hold more water than the surrounding area. Another tip that helps landscape plants in clay soils is to plant early in the season so they will have adequate time to send out new roots before the ground freezes in fall. Also, organic fertilizers are best for clay soil.

Amending Clay Soil

Unfortunately, many of the plants that we want to grow will either struggle or fail to survive in clay. So the next option is to make changes to the soil. If you opt to try to change and amend the soil, it is very important to understand that it will take lots and lots of the right type of amendments. Just adding a bag or two of sand or manure will only make the situation worse. The key to amending clay soil is to amend a large area and use enough coarse sand and coarse organic matter. Avoid trying to change a small area. Plants will have a difficult time making the transition to the surrounding clay soil, effectively limiting their growth to the amended area. And remember not to work clay soils while they are wet. Two of the best amendments for clay soil are coarse sand and coarse organic matter such as compost. Coarse sand is also sometimes called builders' sand. The particles are relatively large, especially when compared to the finer sands used for sandboxes. Finer sands may actually make your problem worse. There are lots of types of organic matter available for gardening but not all of them will help improve clay soil. It must be coarse. Avoid fine-textured material such as peat moss or the packaged manures. If possible, find a source for a coarse compost or aged manure. Check with your city to see if they have a compost site for leaves yard waste.

How much? And how? First, calculate the area you are amending. Length x Width = Square Feet. Ideally, you should use equal parts of coarse sand and coarse organic matter to amend the soil, but extra sand can be used if necessary. You will need to cover the area with a 3-4 inch layer of organic matter and a 3-4 inch layer of sand. Bagged products won't be practical, since they usually ho