Which works better for propogating African Violets?

Is it better to root in water or plant mix?

Answer: 1.
I've been growing African violets for about 30 years; I definitely recommend propagating them in soil. Water lets them root faster, but I'm convinced the roots and any "baby" leaves that are produced are weaker (especially the leaves, because the water supports them). I have found that I get much better plants from leaves propagated in soil. Keep the soil evenly moist; if you can cover the leaf with something clear so that they still get light and create a "greenhouse" situation, that's the best thing for them - you seldom have to water them at all that way. Putting a source of warmth under the leaves also speeds new growth; I found this out by accident when I set two tray of leaves out. One sat above a fluorescent fixture and stayed warm most of the time; the other simply sat on a shelf, and the warm one probably grew 50% bigger in the same period of time!

I don't use rooting hormone; while it helps make lots of roots, it seems to "switch on" most of the cells to make roots, leaving comparatively few to make leaves, which obviously has to happen, too.

I recommend using a good potting soil made specifically for African violets; I use Volkmann Brothers soil (they also sell VERY good fertilizer), and they will ship if you need them to. Lots of growers have their own soil mixes that they swear by, of course.

I'm putting a couple of links to companies that I like, as well as a link to the African Violet Society of America. Here's wishing you lots of new "babies"!!!
Answer: 2.
I have found rooting in plant mix works best for me.
Answer: 3.
My mother always used to root them in water, and she had beautiful plants, but here is a link that should answer all your questions.
www.gardenguides.com/how-to/tipstechni...
Answer: 4.
We propogate them here at the nursery by using floating sheets of styrofoam. take a standard nursery flat (11x22) inches. Cut a piece of styrofoam sheething to fit, poke a bunch of 1/4 inch holes in it and place leaf cuttings stem down into holes. By adding an airstone and air pump (like whats used in an aquarium) you will speed up the rooting time drastically. It also helps to take the cutting then immediately go to water so you dont get an embolism in the stem (air bubble) this will cause a loss in plant life.
Cheers!
Answer: 5.
I never root things in water as the roots need to get used to the environment they will be growing in from the start. So I use plant mix or compost or loam. Important to keep all cuttings out of direct sun and sometimes it's helpful to pop a polythene bag over the top of them for the first few weeks. Keep slightly damp, but not moist, and they should 'take' within 2 weeks or so.
Answer: 6.
The way I have always rooted my African Violets was to prepare African Violet potting soil with water and putting it in a 3" or 4" pot and damping it down; then I put in the leaf; along the rim I put in Popsicle sticks and placed a plastic baggie over it (causing a mini-greenhouse effect) and didn't water it again or take off the plastic baggie for about a month. I had great results with this practice.
Answer: 7.
take a leaf cutting, lay the leaf on a non hi potassium based compost, pin ti down to the soil with wire, either side of the main vein, do not water, put a clear bag over the top leave for ten days, you shod find roots sprouting out of the main vein, if sweating appears take the bag of. but leaf propagation is the best.
Answer: 8.
Actually the best way to propogating them I have found is dipping the stems in rooting powder and then putting them gently into the soil and making sure the leaf doesnt touch the dirt because what I have found is that it rots easily if it touches the wet dirt and will not take. Another tip I've learned to do with african violets is to put the pot in a little dish of water and let it soak up the water into the soil rather than watering from the top. Also you may want to look into root hormone gel if you can find it. I have heard this works better than the powder even on stuff like this and roses. Good luck!

various questions to ask about rose plants(propogating/pruning/feeding)etc!!?

hi. my mum has just bought some roses, they came with limited information on their description tag. i was wondering if a rose pro could answer me the following questions, if ud be so kind - 1) what is the best way of propogating(making new roses) as we need quite a few to cover a space but dont want to spend too too much.2) is manure sufficient as label said they like it mixed in. any other prodcuts recommended.3) mainly-i would like to know how to care for them e.g. - when isd best time to generally prune/cut back roses.thankyou very much for your help!!

Answer: 1.
Hi Marty.

1. Cuttings are the ONLY way of making a genetically identical plant to the one that you already own. Plants grown from the Rose's seeds will be like both parent plants, but not necessarily identical to yours.
Basically you cut a pencil size piece (or pieces) of rose stem and pop it in the ground in the Autumn. Sounds simple because it is. Rose grow very well from pencil size pieces of stem half buried in the ground in the autumn. The more you put in the more likely you success rate. Well cultivated soil helps. Here's a link with more info:

http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/propag...

Here's a video link of another general method of propagation:
http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-prop...

2. "Well rotted" manure is great for your roses applied in the Spring. Roses are pretty tough plants really. A spring potash feed will help flower production, but really a good few inches of manure around the base should be all it needs. There are hundreds of different feeds and products for roses, but their needs are little different from most other shrubs.

3. Cut back a third in the Autumn if they get exposed to a lot of wind. If not then cut back a third in the early Spring. There's a tonne of stuff here that should help:
http://www.apuldramroses.co.uk/Rose-Care...

Recent studies by the Royal National Rose Society have shown that once a shrub rose is established, a light prune with a hedge-trimmer is as good as hours of pruning by hand.

In short:
Clear up the fallen leaves over winter. Mulch with manure autumn and spring. Take hardwood cuttings in Autumn. Trim in early spring.

Hope that helps and you get fabulous roses this year.
Answer: 2.
1. it can be very hard to do this. as it takes time with the method i use and that is to take tail end cutting of the main bush and stick in rooting power and wait and see.
2.in mature plants chicken dropping is good. you get this in buckets in Macro etc. maybe BQ.
3.CUT back in autumn before winds blow new bushes out of the ground a and trim up in summer.
Answer: 3.
Marty
parts 2 & 3 of your questions have been dealt with by others. But part 1 you need to know about.

Almost all roses are "hybrids". If you try to propagate them by cuttings they will not repeat the characteristics of the original plant.

If you look at your roses down at ground level you will find that the stem has a 'bump' on it.

Below that is the 'parent'. Any stems that try to grow from below that bump must be viciously pruned out. They are called 'sports' and will not give the rose flowers you want. Usually their stems are light green whereas the stems that are produced above the bump are pinkish or blueish.

There is a very skilled grafting procedure you need to learn to be able to propogate roses you like. You need to grow parent rose plants from the 'hips' you find in the countryside hedges in November.

The following year, graft cuttings onto these plants from the 'donor'. Perhaps you can research it all on the internet? Or e-mail me by looking up my profile?
Answer: 4.
Roses
Soil / aspect: Ordinary to slightly acid, fertile, moisture retentive, but well drained. Sun or light shade.
Culture: Plant in dormant season, with supports for standards and climbers, Propogate by hardwood cuttings, autum; species also by ripe seed, and cultivars by budding, late summer.
Pruning: Early spring as buds begin to swell; remove entirely weak, diseased and crossing stems. Dead head throughout summer.
Hybrid tea; cut all stems back to4 buds.
Floribunda; cut strong stems back by 3/4, the remainder to 1 or 2 basal buds .
Climbers; remove soft tip growth on leading laterals to 2 buds.
Flower; early summer to autum
Feeding; mid spring, give each rose liqiud feed of general purpose rose fertiliser, once weekly in summer, mulch with well rotted manure over winter.
Roses are unfortunately afflicted by a goodly share of pests and diseases. A small green beetle, the rose chaffer nibbles at the petals so that the blooms open torn and dishelved. Spray at once with gamma-HCH(lindex) or malathion, use for green fly also.
The worst diseases are mildew , black spot and rust. The first two are vanquished without too much trouble by spraying with bupirimate and triforine as soon as the disease appears. Gather leaves that are infected with black spot and burn them to kill the spores over winter in the soil. Rose rust weakens the rose, mulching with well rotted manure and top dressing of rose fertiliser during the summer will have some remedial effects. Severe attacks can be treated with copper fungicide or thiram.
Professional Gardner for 30 odd yrs.