Compost is also a variety of garden mulch. It is easy to make compost for your garden yourself. You just need to follow few simple steps to make compost.

Collect Suitable Composting Material

I wish I could give you a set recipe for ideal compost. It mainly depends upon the micro-organisms present in the soil. You can only make your best efforts to provide an ideal set of conditions which will facilitate these micro-organisms work with maximum efficiency. There are two extremely important conditions that you should ensure while making compost. Proper heat and good aeration are two factors that you always can provide. Micro-organisms generate heat themselves during the process of composting and this plays an important role in the conversion of organic material.

Waste material from only healthy plants should be your priority while collecting it. Dock seed head, dandelion roots, couch and oxalis are some of the materials you should never use because these materials are likely to survive the process of composting. Similarly, food scraps of dairy products, meat and bones are also unsuitable for compost making.

Here are some of commonly and easily available composting materials include grass clippings, leaves, pruning’s, fruit and vegetable scraps, tea leaves, coffee grounds, thin layered animal manure, seaweed, and thin layered wood ash.

Get a good Compost Bin

You need a little free space for making a compost bin. An area with one square meter (1sq.m or 1 meter X 1 meter) which is safe from direct sunlight, winds, and rain would be the most suitable for this purpose. Ensure that the soil is well drained. You should not place the compost bin on any cemented or concrete surface because it will prevent earthworms penetrating in to compost to act as an agent of chemical conversion. It will also forbid the aeration of compost bin. You must make the compost bin at a sufficient distance from your living area.

Now a day’s several types of readymade compost bins are available at garden stores. Choose the one that suits you best. A plastic or wooden compost bin could also be preferred. You must check if the compost bin of your choice has a tight fitting lid. This would keep the unwanted vermin’s and rain water away from the compost bin.

Start Preparing Compost

Once you have selected the right place and placed the compost bin in to it you are ready to start with making compost now. First step would be to break up the topsoil and add chopped coarse garden material that you have already collected. While placing this material in to the compost bin ensure proper aeration and drainage. Any material which is more than 5mm in diameter would not be suitable. Cut this up in to smaller pieces. Micro-organisms badly require air and moisture to break down this organic material. So, smaller sized material would be easier for these micro-organisms to work with.

Observe that there is enough moisture content in the compost bin. In case you see any deficiency, add water to maintain the level of moisture. Make sure that water does not become too much as it will make the compost sloppy, smelly. Any access of water will slow down or break down the process of composting.

Fill the Compost Bin

Composting material when ready must be arranged properly in the bin. You would be required to put this material in layers and ensure that it is enough coarse. First layer of this material will have an upper layer of vegetable peelings, grass clippings, and plant material. You should sprinkle each layer with blood, bone and the compost activators. It would be better if you add a little lime to the material for each layer as this keep a good smell of finished compost. It will also keep the decomposition process at fast pace. Then add a layer of soil on the top of this.

You would be required to repeat the same pattern of layering until the compost bin is full

Work With the Process

It will take almost two week’s time to get the composting material cooled down. Keep taking care and finally after two weeks turn the material over as this would enhance the level of aeration which will speed up the process of composting. Add water in case you observe that the material is dry and need more moisture. Once you’ve done this, it is time to shift the material in composting bin. You must ensure that incomplete and decomposed material has not been used without cutting it down to required size. If it does remains out then better keep it for the next round of composting.

Know How and When To Use Your Compost

Normally the composting process consumes two to five months but it mainly depends upon the season and time of the year. During summers the process gains higher speed while in winters it slows down. In any case, you must know that once all the above steps have been followed carefully, this process will automatically produce good compost for your garden.

When the compost is cooled down, it is ready to use. Ensure that it does not get hot when turning it over. This is a good indicator of the readiness of the compost. You should never use the hot compost to your garden as it will cause severe damages to the young plants.

When you take out the compost out of the compost bin test that it is crumbly, dark brown to almost black in color and has an earthy musty smell. If it is so, mix it with soil and spread it around plants, vegetables, and shrubs in your garden.

Your compost will give you good smiling results in time

Composting Pictures

Composting Videos

Home Composting - It's Second Nature! - Part I	Home Composting - It's Second Nature! Part II
How to Compost : Learn Organic Garden Composting Online : How to Know when the Organic Compost in your Bin is Ready	How to Compost : Learn Organic Garden Composting Online : Why Water is an Important Ingredient for Making Organic Garden Compost

Composting Question & Answers

Composting Question: 1

Is this true about onions?

I have two onions, one that is whole and is growing green things from the top, and another sliced in half which is growing roots(?) or something and also growing things from the top half. I was about to toss them in the compost bin, but my mom says I can still eat these or put them in the ground to grow scallions? It seemed a bit strange to me, so I thought I'd ask.

Answer: 1.
Yup, Mom told you true. You can still eat them or re-plant. I've done the replant. Many plants can be regrown from cuttings.
Good gardening.
Answer: 2.
i wouldnt eat them, i dont know if that would be bad or not, but it cant hurt to plant them if you were just going to toss them. if scallions grow, cool, if not, no harm done.
Answer: 3.
onions are bulbs and if you plant them they will reproduce!
Answer: 4.
never heard you can do that.i thought if you could do that everybody would be growing onions.
Answer: 5.
ya you can still eat them, they have a little bit different flavor, and you can plant them and it will start to grow little babies. same with potatoes

Composting Question: 2

ideas for speeding up composting process!!?

My compost bin is full to overflowing and I havent got room in my small garden to start up another one. Its just not rotting down. Has anyone got any(sensible) ideas as to how I can solve this problem pleez?? I know that heat makes it rot down but this weather doesnt exactly help. I've got one of those special green bins. I live in Hampshire u.k.

Answer: 1.
Composting is Nature's way of recycling and helps to reduce the amount of waste we put out for the bin men. By composting kitchen and garden waste you can easily improve the quality of your soil and be well on your way to a more beautiful garden. The following easy guide to home composting will provide you with all the information needed to get the best out of your bin.
1.It’s best to site your bin on a level, well-drained spot. This allows excess water to drain out and makes it easier for helpful creatures such as worms to get in and get working on breaking down the contents. Placing your bin in a partially sunny spot can help speed up the composting process.
2.Like any recipe, your compost relies on the right ingredients to make it work. Good things you can compost include vegetable peelings, fruit waste, teabags, plant prunings and grass cuttings. These are considered “Greens.” Greens are quick to rot and they provide important nitrogen and moisture. Other things you can compost include cardboard egg boxes, scrunched up paper and fallen leaves. These are considered “Browns” and are slower to rot. They provide fibre and carbon and also allow important air pockets to form in the mixture. Crushed eggshells can be included to add useful minerals.
3.Certain things should never be placed in your bin. No cooked vegetables, no meat, no dairy products, no diseased plants, and definitely no dog poo or cat litter, or baby’s nappies. Putting these in your bin can encourage unwanted pests and can also create odour. Also avoid composting perennial weeds (such as dandelions and thistle) or weeds with seed heads. Remember that plastics, glass and metals are not suitable for composting and should be recycled separately.
4.The key to good compost lies in getting the mix right. You need to keep your Greens and Browns properly balanced. If your compost is too wet, add more Browns. If it’s too dry, add some Greens. Making sure there is enough air in the mixture is also important. Adding scrunched up bits of cardboard is a simple way to create air pockets that will help keep your compost healthy. Air can also be added by mixing the contents. After approximately 6-9 months your finished compost will be ready.
5.Finished compost is a dark brown, almost black soil-like layer that you’ll find at the bottom of your bin. It has a spongy texture and is rich in nutrients. Some bins have a small hatch at the bottom that you can remove to get at the finished product, but sometimes it’s even easier to lift the bin or to tip it over to get at your compost. Spreading the finished compost into your flowerbeds greatly improves soil quality by helping it retain moisture and suppressing weeds. Composting is the easiest way to make your garden grow more beautiful.
Answer: 2.
Have you tried using micro-organisms? I use something called Bokashi (see www.scdworld.com). Though I use it with airtight bins inside and then transfer the compost directly to the soil where it breaks down in 2-5 weeks (depends on the weather), I believe that the micro-ogranisms can help you, as the directions reference outdoor usuage as well.
Answer: 3.
You can buy compost accelerating powder from your garden shop.
Answer: 4.
i could be wrong but doesn't a garden center offer all natural derivatives to help break it down? it will be worth it to check
Answer: 5.
It will take at least 3 months whatever you do. You can buy special stuff to rot down your compost in garden centres that you have to mix in.
Answer: 6.
Do you turn it over every so often? That can help. It is probably quite warm at the bottom and in the middle. Turn it over once in a while with a garden fork and it will breakdown more quickly.
Answer: 7.
Hi there,
What have you been putting in there? If you can get chicken manure to put in, it's really great for getting compost bins going?
I think any fresh manure would work, but don't use cat or dog. It's harmful to humans.
Answer: 8.
I don't know if UK has this product, Rot It or Compost Alive Activator, but it helps compose to rot at an excellerated rate using enzymes. Go to your garden/hardware store and see what they have. I have used it because, like you, I live in a damp, cold area West Coast, BC, Canada. Good for you for going GREEN. Good luck!

Composting Question: 3

Why is composting so hard? (gardening)?

We have tons of kitchen scraps and I'm going nuts looking at everything from turning to bokashi to tumblers to holes. Does this really have to be so complicated? Then I read blogs online of failures, too much work, smell, etc. What really is the right way to do this in a smallish but not miniscule home flower/veggies organic garden?

Answer: 1.
Just pile your grass, leaves and other plant material in one place. Put a few branches around it. Don't add any meat or other items that might smell. Water whenever you feel like it.
Put fencing around it if you want. Even plant morning glories to grow over it. Just don't worry.
Answer: 2.
Thanks Deb! Good luck :)
Answer: 3.
Dig a hole about 2 ft deep and 4 ft across. Put wire around it.
Add your compost, every month or so add some dirt, water if needed, and grass clippings, leaves, manure. Turn with a shovel each month as well. It isn't hard, its easy. Only the time it takes to compost is hard to wait for.


edit* I don't add lime to my compost - the ground here where I live is alkali enough, and I've never had a problem with ph...
Answer: 4.
It's not really that hard.
To make your own compost:
Layer 1 part green materials( grass clippings,green leaves vegetable & fruit scraps) to 2 parts brown material(twigs, dried grass & leaves, shredded newspaper, coffee grounds). Add soil, then more green & browns. Wet down & turn often.
Never use animal fats or meats, weeds with seedheads, breads.

Video on composting with leaves:
http://www.technorati.com/videos/youtube...

Another home composter:using a three bin method:
http://www.technorati.com/videos/youtube...

Good luck!!! Hope this helps.
Answer: 5.
If you try Livn4the's advise (which does work very well), you will also want to add lime to the mix periodically to help speed up the process, add water to keep it a little moist when needed and cover it with a tarp. Also, have you looked into the manufactured composters (available at most Big Box stores). They work very well, come with instruction, are a sealed unit (helps eliminate odors) and produce usable compost quit fast.
Anywho....Happy Gardening!!
Answer: 6.
The most common problem with compost is that it is too wet. When it's too wet, there is no air in the compost and then the stinky kind of bacteria takes over and it smells awful.

If you really have A LOT of compost, then I'd recommend making a simple bin out of four wooden pallets wired together to make an upright box. Make two side by side so you can alternate years with which one you use. Besides working really well, you can't beat the price of materials--free.

The other thing that is important is you need bulkng agents. If the Nitrogen gets too high, you will also have a stink. I use bales of either potting soil or peat moss and alternate layers of compost with bulking agents at least every six inches. Adding a handful of lime pellets every other layer will keep the pH high enough to also hinder bad bacteria. You can get both of these add-ins at any garden store.

If you are doing this on a smaller scale, you can use five gallon plastic buckets or even milk crates. Drill a lot of 1/2" holes in the bottom of the buckets then start with two inches of peat moss. This will give the leachate(ooze) some place to go where it won't make a stink until it drains.

When I use to compost for a summer camp, I ran everything through a wood chipper first. It was a bit messy but chopping everything up increased the surface area and made it decompose faster. It is really the only way to get corn cobs to disappear in a reasonable time.
Answer: 7.
i am a lazy person. if i did the things listed here i would never compost. i have been doing it for 30 years. here is what i do. get 9 ft of wire fencing to make a circle 3ft in diameter. i dump all ny grass and leaves from the yard in it. plant debris goes in along with household stuff like egg shells and fruit peels. i cover these up with the grass and leaves so it doesnt look like a garbage bin. i water it once in awhile and stir it up now and then. thats it. nothing else. works great for me.
Answer: 8.
I have a half-acre, large maples, fruit trees, berry bushes, lots of lawn, numerous flower beds,a 32'x48' vegetable garden and compost everything, including all "clean" kitchen waste (clean waste contains no fat, no protein, no sugar, no starch).

I would suggest the most important aspect of creating good, totally organic compost is time. I live in a Zone 8 climate and keep on a three container, three year rotation. When each spring rolls around, one contains ready to use, fully-composted material from two seasons previous, the second contains all collected last year and the third is for this year's use.

For everything above I use three 4'x4'x4' home made bins with covers to keep the rain out when needed and these are located in an out of the way spot near the garden. Size of containers will obviously be determined by your needs.

Keep damp (not wet) in first two years. Sprinkle a small amount from year two container into the current one every now and again to replenish bacteria. These little workers need air to break down plant material so layering soggy kitchen waste with dryish lawn clippings, leaves etc. will keep things working and relatively odor free. Mix the top 6" of the current year compost a bit every now and again.

When you have emptied all of your "ready" compost, replace with all from last year's container. Aside from exposing material to more air, this "turning over" of your unfinished compost places whatever was least decomposed on top of the pile onto the bottom where more heat, a byproduct of decomposition is stored, ensuring it will be ready when you need it.

Finally, although holes are more than adequate for composting, I would suggest using slightly raised containers rather to lessen back strain.

Good Gardening!

Composting Question: 4

growing veg in a tub?

i want to grow some veg in a plastic tub, ive got some compost do i need normal soil as well, i dont have any& would have to find a field to go did some up

Answer: 1.
We've grow new potatos it tubs on the patio, we just used normal compost. We're south facing so we had to keep them well watered.
Answer: 2.
Soil is no good in a tub, just use compost.
Answer: 3.
Em... well first you'll need to cut out some drainage holes... A water filled tub is some sort of heaven for rot-causing bacteria and fungi... Then you'll need loamy soil... Good luck... Start with easy ones... like basil, etc...
Answer: 4.
You should use a mix of potting soil and compost. Make sure the tub has drainage holes. You should be fine.
Answer: 5.
first of all drill some drainage hole's in bottom of tub, then if you can find some mole hill's just take the top soil from the hill and mix it half & half and a half hand full of fish blood & bone meal and away you plant
Answer: 6.
make some holes in the tub and cover it with some pebbles. thenmix compost with soil add some cow-dung manure and your tub is ready for you to grow vegetables

Composting Question: 5

what can i do to keep my dog out of my garden?

he broke the old lattus and made it his own jungle (this was about 3 years ago, he did it so he would be able to run through it) we didn't bother because we werent allowed to touch mom's roses. but now i dug it all up and started from scratch. I planted bulbs and seeds, but now he likes to dig in it! espesially with the compost. it is already fenced off, and i built some good strong lattus, but he jumps over. is there anything i can put in the gardent to keep him away from it?i dont want to invest in a wireless fence, my mom is out of work right now so money is shortthanks, Rachel

Answer: 1.
I have three dogs and all of them like to dig now and then. Here are two things that have helped. I had access to some barb wire so I made 12 - 18 " circles with it. I placed these around my individual plants. If there are to many plants to do around all, just do this around the more expensive ones. I also like to use hot chili powder or pepper. Make sure the dog gets a little taste or smell right from the jar. Then they know to avoid this. I have had good luck with both of these.
Answer: 2.
There is a product you can purchase in lawn & garden stores to sprinkle around the edge to keep them out. Go to some gardening web sites, or ask questions on the internet and it will pop up with sites where they tell you different things to try. We used to put crushed moth ball flakes aound and they hate the smell. Some herbs keep them away also. They say to let your dog have a small corner and fill with sand, then put his toys there and only let him play there.
Answer: 3.
Sounds as though you are doomed. A dog and the dirt are best friends. If you are unable to get a fence tall enough and strong enough to keep Fido out, then having veggies and flowers will not happen. He will continue to destroy it. He thinks that the garden is HIS to mess up. Sorry.

You could stake the dog to a pole with a leash?

You could separate the dog and the garden by having the dog in the front section of the property, and the garden in the bcka.. .?
Answer: 4.
i have heard citrus keeps animals out, also theres a spray they sell at pet stores that a freind of mine swears by - called bitter apple.
I have not tried it but maybe worth looking into.
Answer: 5.
For the best remedy, I would start by retraining your dog. It will take lots of work, but your dog must learn that the garden is off limits. You will have to have him on a leash whenever he is outside. That way you can correct him when he tries to go into the garden. It may take several months to achieve success, but with perseverance, you should be able to teach him the garden is off limits.
Answer: 6.
you can use red pepper..sprinkle it around the outside of the bed...he wont like the smell..you can also use moth balls again around the outside and inside of the beds..
Answer: 7.
Have you put him on a leash- tie him up - give him enough length so that he can move around but keep it short of the garden.